Bites of Nassau – Experiencing the Bahamas through Food

Last week on our Carnival Liberty cruise, we took the Bites of Nassau Food Tasting and Cultural Walking Tour with Tru Bahamian Food Tours. This is a three-hour walking tour of downtown Nassau where we learned about Bahamian history and culture while sampling authentic local dishes along the way.

We met our tour guides Joy and Kyshana in front of the Christ Church Cathedral, a short walk from the cruise port. Our first stop was Bahamian Cookin’, where we had the main part of our meal, an appetizer of conch fritters, followed by a plate of steamed chicken, peas and rice, baked macaroni and fried plantains. Delicious! While we ate, Joy explained that Bahamian cooking combines the flavors and ingredients of West Africa and the American South, reflecting the history of the islands. Seafood, especially conch, is an important part of Bahamian cuisine. In fact, we had three different conch dishes during our tour. As we left the restaurant, Joy handed out cups of refreshing Switcha, a Bahamian lemonade made from sour oranges, which are similar to key limes.

On the walk to our next stop, the Graycliff Hotel and Chocolatier, Kyshana filled us in on the history of the buildings that we passed. She pointed out the Balcony House, the oldest residential building in Nassau, and the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation which sits on the former site of an open market where slaves were bought and sold. At the Government House, we paused to enjoy the breeze and the view from the third highest point in the Bahamas.

Christ Church Cathedral courtyard

Balcony House, the oldest residential structure in Nassau

view from the Government House

The Graycliff Hotel was built in 1740 and at various times has housed pirates, the American Navy, Al Capone, Sir Winston Churchill and (more recently) Beyonce and Jay-Z. We got a glimpse of the restaurants, gardens, and the beautiful mosaic tile swimming pool as we walked through the grounds of the hotel. At the Chocolatier, we each sampled two pieces of chocolate, a white chocolate key lime and a dark chocolate seasalt caramel, both melt-in-your-mouth creamy.

At our third stop, Chillin’ Conch Stand and Daiquiri Shack, we had cracked conch sliders. This was the only place where I didn’t really enjoy the food because the fried conch was just too chewy for me. But I loved the colorful building with its outdoor tables and swing chairs. Bahama Barrels, Nassau’s only winery, was on the same property. Ron and I decided we’d have to come back on another trip for a wine tasting.

Next up was the Talking Stick Bar, where Lucky the bartender served us glasses of rum punch. Then we moved on to Nassau’s oldest Greek restaurant, the Athena Café, for a bowl of conch chowder with pita bread. Some people might wonder why a Greek restaurant was included on a tour about Bahamian food and history. Joy explained that Greeks migrated to the Bahamas in the 1800’s to harvest sponges. After a blight wiped out the sponges, the sponging industry moved to Tarpon Springs, Florida but a small Greek community still thrives in Nassau.

Since some of the group needed to get back to their cruise ships, our sixth and final stop at the Tortuga Rum Cake Company was short and sweet. Joy handed out pieces of rum cake and we exchanged email addresses so that we could receive an e-booklet of recipes from the restaurants we had visited. Ron and I had time left to explore and shop before our ship left port, so we walked back to Graycliff to pick up some more of those wonderful chocolates. I was glad I could take a little taste of the Bahamas home with me.

At the beginning of the tour, Joy told us that we had three goals – education, fun and a full and happy belly. Bites of Nassau checked off all three boxes.

Travel tips: The Bites of Nassau tour involves over a mile of walking, some uphill, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes and weather-appropriate clothes. Although water and drinks are provided, you might want to bring along an additional bottle of water for sipping between stops.

"The Beat Drum Club" mural on George Street